On the Road Again . . . to the Baja, ha ha!
60F of Separation

Judith Veder
Saul Scheinbach-photos

    On January 17, 2009 Saul and I left for Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, in the Baja peninsula, home of the gray whales, and the humpbacks, tourists, Cabo-wabo (look it up!) timeshare hackers and gorgeous beaches. Not a bad trade-off from the cold Bronx temperatures!

    We stayed in a beautiful casita overlooking a beach on the Sea of Cortes, cormorants, brown pelicans, western gulls. Breaching humpback whales were common sightings and jumping (yes, jumping!) bat rays. 

    To see whales up close, we took a sunset cruise out of Cabo Bay, no sunset that night, but we were lucky to see the humpbacks close up, "a rare treat," the Capitan said. But that wasn't enough for us, so on another day we booked a flight in a six-seater prop plane to Magdalena Bay, 200 miles up the Baja coast, to the "nursery" of the grays, and a place where maybe you could reach out and touch some. We were a little too early for the hundreds that normally show up, but we did get close to about five "cow/calfs" as our panga (boat) guide called them. They were magnificent, huge, and seeing such majestic mammals is cause to abhor the Japanese killing of them, $2 million each the guide said. We also saw bottle nose dolphins, great blue herons and white pelicans.

    On two other beautiful mornings we headed for an Estero (estuary) off the beach, a very Florida looking place full of coots and gallinules, blue-winged teals, grebes, spotted sandpipers, and black-necked stilts, someplace where we could walk along the unpeopled beach or just along the banks or wooded areas of this sanctuary, recently protected by the Mexican government. The highlights were a white-faced ibis, gilded flickers, vermillion flycatcher, common ground doves, hooded orioles and Costas hummingbird. 

    We did lots of beach and pool sitting. Saul went fishing, a lure of the area, and caught a 25 pound yellowfin tuna, half-dozen dorados (mahi-mahi), and a hammerhead shark (released). We brought the mahi-mahi to the local restaurant for dinner and the chef prepared it 6 different ways. 

    We also visited a spa/beauty school, went to see the towns and spent time in Costco and Walmart. I took a lesson in a beading technique called Huichol. We read lots, ate good food, met nice people, even saw a zone-tailed hawk on the way to the airport, and now, we are home watching the snowflakes fall and the temperatures drop! 

    Adios Mexico! Hola the Bronx!


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